Good omen as I embark on my 2-month journey in South Africa:
No major delays encountered on the long trek to Johannesburg. My one regret was having a window seat for the 11 hour flight from Amsterdam to Johannesburg. I was glad to be greeted by Catherine with a big welcome smile and open arms. We drove back from the airport entertained by a spectacular sound and light show of thunder and lightning. Accompanying the warm summer are also tropical storms, which usually don’t last longer than 2 hours.
Christmas was celebrated with the opening of cards and presents from back home. Thanks to all of you for your thoughtful and yummy presents from Canada. The local hawkers did well by Catherine who bought several small beaded Christmas decorations to hang on the tiny black beaded Christmas tree.
World’s biggest man-made forest
One of the striking things about Johannesburg is how green it is. It’s known as the ‘city that’s a rain forest’ with more that 10 million trees. The tree canopy is fantastic. Right in the middle of this sprawling metropolis of 600 suburbs is the Melville Koppies Nature Reserve, one of the most beautiful natural settings in Joburg. Catherine’s cottage overlooks this lovely green area covering more than 150 hectares. On the Sunday after arriving I did a rigorous 10 km group hike through the Koppies. The 3-hour walk was rated a 2 out of 3 difficulty, with some relatively steep, rocky slopes. Given the high altitude of Joburg (almost 1800 meters) and it being a hot and humid day, I certainly felt tired and winded when finished. I plan on taking a guided walking tour this Sunday so maybe I’ll write more of the geology and the flora (entirely indigenous!) in the Koppies. A gem indeed!
Most progressive constitution in the world
A walk and guided tour of Constitution Hill was a very moving experience for me. This notorious prison complex was where Mahatma Gandhi, Nelson Mandela, and many other anti-apartheid activists, including the students of the1976 Soweto uprising were detained, at “Number Four”. During the height of the apartheid era, as many as 2000-3000 black men and women a day were incarcerated under appalling conditions for merely not carrying their pass books.
This entire site has been transformed into a place of teaching, and it demonstrates that the injustices of the past can be turned into a place of present and future justice. It is now the location of the highest court in South Africa, dealing with constitutional matters. The Court building is a beautiful piece of architecture and highly symbolic. They have reused the bricks from the demolished Awaiting Trial Block, now part of a circular, welcoming and transparent space, where natural light streams into the forum from many angles and one can see in from the outside.
The use of slanted columns throughout is a metaphor for trees, the place where traditional Africa would resolve disputes. It is definitely an architectural space that pays homage to the work done there. Sometimes architects do get it right!
Mall Culture & Driving around
On Tuesday, I got up my gumption and took the wheel. Remember, driving is on the left side of the road here. Luckily it appears that everyone has left town for the holidays, so no traffic to contend with. It wasn’t too bad except when the “robots” (we call them traffic lights/signals) at the major intersections were not working (note: this happens regularly). Starting to get my bearings and know my way around in the immediate neighbourhood.
What’s up with this mall culture? Everyone goes to the malls and there are many of them…Guess in part, it has to do with the safety factor. Wherever one parks, there are lots of “car guards” everywhere; guys looking for money to take care of your car. Everyone’s got some sort of job here…
December 31, 2014
New Year’s eve, we headed down to Newtown to the Mary Fitzgerald Square to take in some local live music and food. Mary Fitzgerald was the first female trade unionist in the country and in 1911 she led the wives of striking tram workers. The square is the centerpiece of this area’s (Newtown) urban renewal project, which includes 650 mixed income housing apartments delivered by the Johannesburg Housing Company, major private investment to develop shopping, sports and cultural facilities. The verdict is still out as to whether it has been successful.
We ran into some youth wearing “Ambassador” t-shirts and started chatting with them about the event. This led to us asking about their take on politics in South Africa. They are not of the current ANC Zuma regime and although they appeared interested in the Ecomomic Freedom Fighters (EFF), they were still hesitant about putting hope in the party. Turns out they are part of a City led initiative, called “Cities Yeah” (?) which involves youth aged 18 to 24 in mentoring initiatives. They were fun, engaged and thoughtful youth and a highlight of our New Year’s eve.
Happy New Year to all my friends, family and co-workers.
That’s all for now folks….